finally made it to corcovado national park! this time, the colectivo (see post 43), actually made it up the muddy hills and river-crossings in the heart of the mountains up to carate, its final destination. from there, i teamed up with some locals who invited me to join their 10 hour voyage by foot into the heart of corcovado and in to sirena, one of the biological reserves of this magical place. along my travels, i got close and personal with monkeys, snakes, dantas (tapir), hawks, falcons, lapas (macaws) pavones (huge wild turkeys of all colors), pizotes (racoon-like cuties) and many other fascinating plants, fungi, insects and animals, including this beautiful libélula (dragonfly). iridescent in hue, this brave soul let me get just a few centimeters away, as he or she danced, coiling its back rhythmically up and down, attracting other dragonflies. here i was stuck in the middle of a sacred mating ritual under the ancient virgin canopies of corcovado, the waves of the pacific ocean rumbling nearby, in tune with the myriad of beings that create this haven.